How to Perform a Storm Damage Roof Inspection Step by Step


A storm damage roof inspection is a systematic, safety-first sweep that checks the ground, roof surface, and attic for wind-torn shingles, hail bruises, and hidden leaks—all backed by photo evidence you can hand straight to an insurance adjuster. Done correctly, it tells you whether a quick patch, a professional roofer, or a full claim is the smart move.


Speed matters as much as accuracy. Colorado’s fast-moving hail cells and 60-mph chinook gusts can turn a hairline shingle crack into attic mold or a denied claim in a matter of weeks. By acting quickly—yet following a structured plan—you protect your home, your equity, and your peace of mind.


The guide that follows breaks the job into seven clear steps, from making the yard safe to talking numbers with your insurer, so any homeowner can inspect storm damage with Marine-level precision before the next cloud rolls in.


Step 1: Make the Area Safe and Start With a Ground-Level Scan


Before any storm damage roof inspection begins, secure the scene. Injuries soar after hail and wind events because homeowners rush onto slick roofs or step on hidden debris. Wait for full daylight, verify the weather has passed, and walk the perimeter first—never the roof—looking for hazards like downed power lines, loose limbs, or shattered glass.


Gather Basic Tools and Protective Gear



  • Sturdy, rubber-soled shoes or boots

  • Work gloves and eye protection

  • Hard hat and high-visibility vest

  • Smartphone (camera + flashlight)

  • Binoculars and chalk or a grease pencil for marking trouble spots


Identify Obvious Exterior Damage From the Ground


Scan siding, windows, fascia, and gutters for dents or cracks. Shingle pieces, granule piles near downspouts, or bent drip edges all hint at roof trouble. Note anything that could make ladder placement unsafe—sagging gutters or warped decking.


Create a Safety Checklist Before Proceeding



























Safety Item Check?
Power lines clear [ ]
Ground dry / non-slippery [ ]
Roof visually stable [ ]
Buddy notified or on site [ ]

Only when every box is ticked should you consider moving to Step 2.


Step 2: Inspect the Roof From the Ground Using Distance Techniques


With the yard cleared, put your ladder away for a moment. A well-executed distance scan saves extra climbs, highlights the worst-hit roof planes, and tells you whether the deck is even safe to touch. Stand 20–30 ft from each elevation and trace the roofline from eave to ridge before shifting to side angles for depth perception.


Use Binoculars or a Zoom Camera


Bring shingles “closer” without leaving the lawn. Look for:



  • Lifted or missing tabs that break the straight shingle courses

  • Creases where wind has folded shingles back

  • Dark spots or bruises—classic hail impacts

  • Bent ridge caps or dented metal vents


Snap high-resolution photos; you can zoom further later.


Evaluate Gutters, Downspouts, and Roof Edges


Dings or dimples in aluminum confirm hail size and direction. Check seams pulled apart by wind and sediment piles—loose granules signal aged or beaten shingles.


Decide if the Roof Is Safe to Mount


If more than about 10 % of shingles look displaced, the ridge sags, or metal edges appear torn, stay grounded and call a pro. Otherwise, plan your ladder spot following OSHA’s three-point-contact rule and only on level, dry soil.


Step 3: Safely Access the Roof Surface


Even the most detailed ground scan can’t replace a hands-on view, but a storm damage roof inspection ends fast when the inspector ends up in the ER. Set an extension ladder on firm, level soil at the 4-to-1 rule (for every 4 ft of height, the ladder base sits 1 ft out). Use ladder stabilizers or standoff arms so the rails—not the rungs—rest against the fascia. Before climbing, tie the ladder off at the top, slip on a properly fitted fall-arrest harness, and clip the lanyard to a certified roof anchor. Rubber-soled shoes and a clean tool belt round out a safe ascent.


Climb With a Purpose: Establish an Inspection Route


Pick a direction—clockwise is easiest for right-handed folks—and stick to it. Begin at the eaves, advance to the ridge, then trace hips, valleys, and finally every penetration (chimney, vent, skylight). This disciplined loop prevents missed sections and duplicate photos.


Take Preliminary Photos Before Touching Anything


Snap wide, medium, and close-up shots the moment you step off the ladder. Time-stamped images capture the roof in its untouched state—vital proof if shingles dislodge later or an adjuster questions causation.


Step 4: Examine Shingles, Flashing, and Other Roof Components Up Close



With the roof safely underfoot, shift from macro to micro. This is the heart of a storm damage roof inspection—where you confirm whether last night’s wind gusts merely ruffled a tab or punched a golf-ball-sized crater through your waterproofing. Work methodically along the route you mapped in Step 3, pausing every few feet to kneel, look, and document.


Identify Wind Damage Indicators



  • Curled or lifted shingle edges that no longer lie flat

  • Crease lines across the middle of a tab—the asphalt mat fractures when wind flips it back

  • Missing nails or torn nail heads where suction has sheared them off

  • Displaced ridge or hip caps, often the first pieces to go in 60 + mph gusts


Detect Hail Impact and Granule Loss



  • Circular bruises that feel soft or spongy when pressed

  • Granule-free “divots” exposing black asphalt—compare size to a dime, quarter, or golf ball in photos

  • Downspout screens or gutters filled with loose granules, confirming widespread impact


Inspect Flashing, Vents, and Penetrations



  • Bent or separated step flashing along sidewalls

  • Cracked rubber vent boots, missing storm collars, or dried caulk at pipe penetrations

  • Chimney counter-flashing pulled away, leaving a capillary path for water


Check Metal Elements for Telltale Signs


Dented gutters, ridge vents, or drip edge metal act as hail “carbon paper,” recording stone size and strike angle—data adjusters love.


Note Less Visible but Serious Issues


Look for broken adhesive strips between shingle courses, dislodged ridge ventilation baffles, and small punctures from wind-thrown debris. Photograph every anomaly before moving on; even minor defects can blossom into leaks once snow load or freeze-thaw cycles return.


Step 5: Review the Attic and Interior for Hidden Water Intrusion


Some of the worst storm-related roof failures never show up topside. Wind-driven rain can snake under lifted shingles, run along rafters, and drip hours—or days—later onto insulation and drywall. A quick peek inside therefore turns a good storm damage roof inspection into a complete one and helps you spot leaks before mold or rot take hold.


Attic Walk-Through (or Crawl)


Slip on a headlamp and follow the ridge from gable to gable. Check for:



  • Dark or shiny stains on the underside of sheathing

  • Matted or damp insulation clumps

  • Musty or “earthy” odors hinting at early mold growth

  • Daylight peeking through nail holes or popped seams


Run your hand across rafters and truss plates; cool, clammy wood signals active moisture. Log every suspect spot and snap a photo—flash on, lens 6–12 inches away—for the adjuster file.


Interior Ceilings and Walls


Inside the living space, look for water rings, bubbling paint, sagging drywall tape, and peeling wallpaper. A $25 pin-type moisture meter gives objective readings; mark anything above 15 % and photograph both the meter and the blemish.


Understand “Invisible” Storm Damage


Micro-cracks caused by hail or wind uplift may stay dry today yet channel capillary leaks during the next freeze-thaw cycle. Documenting them now strengthens any future claim and prevents “pre-existing damage” arguments.


Step 6: Document, Categorize, and Estimate the Damage


A solid paper trail is your best defense when it’s time to negotiate with an adjuster or contractor. Treat every shingle bruise or gutter dent like evidence at a crime scene—photograph, tag, back-up, and label it before moving on.


Photo & Video Best Practices



  • Shoot three angles for each defect: wide (context), medium (location), close-up (detail).

  • Include a ruler, coin, or chalk circle for scale.

  • Turn on the time-stamp setting or say the date aloud in video clips.

  • Upload nightly to cloud storage in a folder named Storm-YYYY-MM-DD .


Use a Structured Storm Damage Checklist




























Location Issue Type Severity Photo ID Notes
North slope Hail crater Moderate IMG_1023 1¼-in. divot
Chimney flashing Wind lift Severe IMG_1030 Metal separated 3 in.

Print or share this sheet as a PDF so everyone—roofer, adjuster, spouse—is reading from the same playbook.


Preliminary Cost Estimation



  • Asphalt shingle replacement: ~$325 per square (100 sq ft) in Colorado.

  • Flashing repair: $8–$12 per linear foot, plus labor.

  • Aluminum gutter section: $7–$10 per foot; downspouts slightly less.


Multiply the unit cost by measured quantities (length × price) to get a ballpark figure. If the math exceeds your deductible or comfort level, gear up for Step 7.


Step 7: Decide Between DIY Fixes, Professional Help, or an Insurance Claim


Your storm damage roof inspection data now needs action. Compare what you found to your skill level, local code, and deductible. A wrong call can void warranties or leave you paying twice—once for a botched patch and again for the real repair.


When a Simple DIY Repair Is Acceptable



  • Fewer than three missing or torn shingles on a low-slope (<6:12) section

  • No damaged decking, flashing, or interior leaks

  • You own basic roofing tools and can work safely in a clear 48-hour weather window


Red Flags Requiring a Professional Roofer



  • Granule loss across multiple planes or widespread hail bruising

  • Structural concerns: sagging ridge, soft sheathing, chimney flashing gaps

  • Steep pitches, tile, metal, or designer shingles that need manufacturer-specific techniques


Understanding Insurance Claim Thresholds



  • If repair cost > deductible, filing usually makes sense

  • Most Colorado policies allow 12–24 months after the event—miss it and coverage disappears

  • Document “sudden and accidental” damage; wear-and-tear isn’t covered


How to Communicate With Adjusters



  1. Email your checklist, labeled photos, and cost estimates before the visit.

  2. Walk the roof together; point to every tagged spot.

  3. Keep damaged materials on site until the adjuster signs off.

  4. Get all agreements in writing—scope, price, code upgrades—before authorizing work.


Protect Your Home Before the Next Storm


A thorough storm damage roof inspection isn’t a one-time chore—it’s part of an ongoing defense plan. By running through the seven steps you just learned



  1. Clear hazards

  2. Scan from the ground

  3. Mount the roof safely

  4. Check shingles and flashing up close

  5. Investigate attic and ceilings

  6. Document and estimate

  7. Choose repair, pro help, or claim


you catch problems early, file claims on time, and stop a $50 shingle tear from turning into a $15,000 rot repair.


Colorado’s weather won’t slow down, but you can stay a step ahead by scheduling routine check-ups after every significant hail or wind event. If you’d rather skip the ladder altogether—or want a second pair of expert eyes—our veteran-owned crew is ready to help. Book a free, no-obligation roof assessment with Semper Fi Restoration today through our online scheduler and rest easy before the next storm cloud rolls in.


Ready to Get Your Free Inspection Schedule?